Steak and no menu
The parrilla had four items and a chalkboard. The waiter asked how we wanted it, disagreed with the answer, and served it his way. He was correct.
30 stories, 50 fun facts, 20 quotes on this page. It covers Argentina, Australia, Asia, Oceania, Chile, New Zealand and 35 other places. Page 9 of 10.
30 stories, 50 fun facts, 20 quotes on this page. It covers Argentina, Australia, Asia, Oceania, Chile, New Zealand and 35 other places. Page 9 of 10.
Every country page collects its entries in one place, with a fact sheet and the guides for going there.
The parrilla had four items and a chalkboard. The waiter asked how we wanted it, disagreed with the answer, and served it his way. He was correct.
The Dingo Fence stretches further than the distance from Berlin to Kabul, built to protect sheep country.
Shalom and salaam come from the same root and both mean peace.
Once service alleys, Melbourne's laneways now hold legal street art walls, tiny bars and coffee counters.
Two people in their seventies danced on paving stones in San Telmo with a portable speaker. A crowd formed, and nobody who watched was under any illusion about who was best.
Just over one million self-cleaning Swedish tiles cover the shells, in two subtly different finishes.
Aloha means hello, goodbye and love, and locals will tell you it is a way of behaving, not a greeting.
Feral dromedaries introduced in the 1800s now number in the hundreds of thousands across the outback.
The wind blew constantly for four days from the same direction. On the fifth it stopped and everyone in the hostel came outside to check that something was not wrong.
Their tail and leg structure prevents reverse movement, which is partly why the kangaroo appears on the coat of arms.
Four seasons before lunch on every single day. Nobody bothered changing clothes for the rain because it would be sunny again in twenty minutes.
Wombats produce cube-shaped droppings thanks to uneven intestinal walls, so the pellets do not roll off rocks.
Mana: spiritual power and presence, carried by people and by places.
The ratio has fallen from twenty to one in the 1980s to around five to one today, still comfortably ahead.
The guide switched off the last light and asked us to wait ten minutes for our eyes. The Milky Way arrived as if someone had turned it on.
Before humans arrived the only native land mammals were bats, so birds filled almost every ecological role.
Polynesian navigators reached Aotearoa around 1300 AD, making it one of the last large landmasses humans settled.
Kaitiakitanga: guardianship of the land, on the understanding that you are only borrowing it.
Everyone takes the same forced-perspective photo and everyone thinks they invented it. Our driver had a box of props and a practised routine and enjoyed it more than we did.
Carved by glaciers rather than a river, Milford is technically a fiord, and it gets over six metres of rain a year.
In 2017 the Whanganui River was granted legal personhood, with guardians appointed to speak for it.
Sixty-four kilometres downhill with a drop on one side. The guide said the brakes were the only thing worth checking and then checked them four times.
Turangawaewae: a place to stand, the ground where you feel connected and empowered.
Geothermal activity vents hydrogen sulphide across the town, earning it the nickname Sulphur City.
The world's biggest urban cable car network is public transport, not a ride. We commuted across the city over rooftops for the price of a bus fare.
The first commercial bungee site opened at the Kawarau Bridge in 1988, inspired by Vanuatu land diving.
Naghol divers leap from wooden towers with vines tied to their ankles, a harvest ritual centuries older than bungee.
Songlines: routes across the land recorded in song, a map you can sing rather than fold.
The ground moves under your feet like a mattress. They add fresh reeds every fortnight and the whole island is rebuilt from underneath over about thirty years.
Fiji comprises around 330 islands, of which about a third are permanently inhabited.
In 2011 Samoa jumped the international date line for trade reasons, and 30 December simply never happened.
The best cevicherias close in the afternoon because the fish is from that morning. Anyone serving ceviche at eight in the evening, our host said, is telling you something.
Walkabout: a journey undertaken on foot to reconnect with country and self.
Tonga is the only Pacific nation never formally colonised, retaining its monarchy throughout.
Kiribati's scattered atolls cross both the equator and the date line, giving it an enormous ocean territory.
Five thousand metres, three hundred people and a queue for the summit photograph. Twenty minutes along the ridge there was nobody at all and the same view.
Licensing the .tv internet domain has provided a meaningful share of Tuvalu's national revenue.
A guest brings good fortune with him.
Nothing runs away. A sea lion slept on a bench, a bird walked over my boot, and a marine iguana sneezed salt at me without moving.
Phosphate mining briefly made Nauru extraordinarily wealthy before the deposits ran out in the 1990s.
Palau restricted reef-toxic sunscreen ingredients in 2020 to protect its coral, one of the first nations to do so.
The animal market starts at six and finishes by nine. Everything else is for tourists and the sellers say so themselves, cheerfully.
Atithi Devo Bhava: the guest is equivalent to God.
With over 800 living languages, Papua New Guinea is the most linguistically diverse country on Earth.
Navigators read ocean swells using stick charts, memorising wave patterns rather than carrying the charts to sea.
We stopped on a mountain road at two in the morning. The driver, the conductor and six passengers changed the wheel by phone torch in eleven minutes.
Wayfinders crossed thousands of kilometres of open Pacific reading stars, swell direction, cloud shapes and bird flight.
East, west, home is best.
Somebody was playing dominoes on the pavement, somebody was fixing a car, somebody was singing. All three had been doing it since before we arrived and continued after.
The central peaks are the remains of a volcano slowly subsiding inside its own coral ring.
Volcanic basalt ground down by waves gives many Tahitian beaches their dark colour.
He had made a part for a 1955 Chevrolet out of a Russian tractor component. He showed it to us the way other people show photographs of their children.
A naturally heart-shaped clearing in the mangroves of Voh became famous through aerial photography.
He who does not travel does not know the value of men.
The Pacific covers about a third of the planet's surface and contains roughly half of its free water.
The volume was not negotiable. A grandmother two rows up conducted with one hand and the driver adjusted the bass on her instruction.
Challenger Deep reaches about 10,900 metres, more than two kilometres deeper than Everest is high.
Do not follow the path. Go where there is no path and begin the trail.
The nearest humans to Point Nemo are often astronauts on the space station passing overhead.
Every house had them and nobody used them that week. The shop owner said you fit them in May and forget them, and that forgetting is the whole point.
Reefs occupy less than one percent of the ocean floor but support around a quarter of all marine species.
From the boat it is a dark circle in turquoise. From the water it is a wall going down into nothing and your brain refuses to process the scale.
We have better high-resolution maps of Mars than of our own seabed, though mapping projects are closing the gap.
If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together.
The North Pole sits on drifting sea ice while the South Pole rests on a continent under kilometres of ice.
No moon, no lights, no cameras allowed. Every paddle stroke lit up and fish left trails like sparks under the kayak.
Blood Falls is stained by iron-rich brine that has been sealed beneath the ice for over a million years.
A smooth sea never made a skilled sailor.
Katabatic winds strip the McMurdo Dry Valleys bare, and some have not seen rain for around two million years.
We took the wrong ferry and spent a day on an island with one road, one bar and eleven residents who found the whole thing very funny.
Emperors incubate eggs on their feet through the polar night at temperatures below minus 40 degrees.
The sea is common to all.
Residents leaving town are legally advised to carry a rifle because of the bear population.
Afternoon thunderstorms arrive almost daily in summer. A ranger said the rule is simple: summit by noon, and if you cannot, do not summit.
Permafrost prevents decomposition, so burials in the town cemetery stopped decades ago.
A stranger had left a cooler of cold drinks at a road crossing with a note. Nobody took more than one, and somebody had refilled the ice that morning.
Above the Arctic Circle the sun does not set for weeks, and blackout curtains are standard equipment.
All roads lead to Rome.
Icebergs calve from land glaciers, so despite floating in the sea they are made of compressed fresh snow.
We drove twenty minutes from the town and the difference was absurd. A ranger explained dark sky certification and then turned off her own torch to prove the point.
Roughly 90 percent of an iceberg's mass sits below the waterline, which is where the metaphor comes from.
When in Rome, do as the Romans do.
The modern passport with a photo and standard booklet emerged from a 1920 League of Nations conference.
The guide checks the forecast for the whole watershed, not just the canyon. A storm eighty kilometres away can fill a slot canyon in minutes and there is nowhere to go.
Before railways every town kept its own solar time. Standard time zones were adopted to make timetables possible.
Nine nationalities, one pot of soup, minus twenty-eight outside. Somebody's grandmother's recipe was reconstructed by committee and it was excellent.
The international date line bends around island groups so countries are not split across two calendar days.
A shared journey is half as long.
The body finds it easier to lengthen a day than shorten one, so westward flights usually feel gentler.
Freight has priority, so passenger trains wait on sidings. We were eleven hours late and the dining car simply kept serving as if it were a hotel with wheels.
The small bleed hole in a cabin window equalises pressure so the outer pane bears the load.
The lighter the load, the longer the road.
Relative humidity on a long-haul flight often drops below 20 percent, which is why you feel thirsty.
There is a hierarchy: carpet beats tile, chairs without armrests beat carpet, and a bench near a plug beats everything. This knowledge is earned.
Low pressure and dry air dull sweet and salty perception, so airline meals are seasoned more heavily.
My phone died in a city where I could not read the alphabet. A teenager at a bus stop looked up my hotel, wrote the address in her language, and walked me to the right stop.
Flight recorders are painted bright orange with reflective tape so search teams can spot them.
Slowly, slowly the egg walks on legs.
Chicago O'Hare uses ORD from its old name Orchard Field, long after the orchard disappeared.
The consulate staff had clearly done this a thousand times. She asked three questions, made two calls, and told me it would be four days and to go and enjoy the city.
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The missed ferry. The stranger who handed over a key. The meal that ran until midnight. If something happened to you on the road and you still think about it, send it - a few sentences is plenty, and we do the tidying up.