Oceania & the Pacific: 64 stories, quotes and facts

Islands navigated by swell and starlight, reefs visible from orbit, and the emptiest ocean on Earth.

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Islands navigated by swell and starlight, reefs visible from orbit, and the emptiest ocean on Earth.

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Story#594

Kangaroos at the tee

The golf course had a local rule about kangaroos on the fairway. There were fourteen of them and none of them moved for anyone.

Quote#807

Aloha means more

Aloha means hello, goodbye and love, and locals will tell you it is a way of behaving, not a greeting.

Story#597

Driving the Nullarbor

Ninety miles straight, no curve at all. We passed four road trains and one cyclist who waved with an energy that suggested he had not seen anyone for a while.

Story#601

Cassowary crossing

The signs say dangerous. Then one walks out of the rainforest two metres in front of the car and you understand the signs completely.

Story#605

Sydney to Bondi at six

The coastal walk at six in the morning was full of runners, swimmers and one man doing tai chi on a rock. Nobody had a phone out.

Story#607

Uluru at the wrong hour

Everybody goes at sunset. We went at eleven in the morning in 38 degrees, saw four people, and the rock was a colour nobody photographs.

Quote#813

Mana

Mana: spiritual power and presence, carried by people and by places.

Story#611

The great ocean detour

We drove the whole road in one day, which is a mistake. Someone at a bakery in Apollo Bay told us to take three, and she was right.

Fun fact#810

Kangaroos cannot walk backwards

Their tail and leg structure prevents reverse movement, which is partly why the kangaroo appears on the coat of arms.

Story#615

Tasmanian silence

We stood at Cape Grim in wind that had crossed the Southern Ocean untouched. It smelled like nothing at all, which is apparently the point.

Story#619

Milford in the rain

Everyone hopes for sun. Locals told us to hope for rain, because that is when a thousand temporary waterfalls appear on the cliffs. They were right within an hour.

Story#621

The Tongariro crossing

Nineteen kilometres, four weather systems and a lake the colour of antifreeze. Somebody in shorts passed us going the other way at a run.

Quote#818

Kaitiakitanga

Kaitiakitanga: guardianship of the land, on the understanding that you are only borrowing it.

Story#625

Hitching in the South Island

We waited eleven minutes and got picked up by a shearer who talked about sheep for two hours and dropped us forty kilometres past his own turnoff.

Story#629

Glowworm ceiling

The boat went silent and the guide pulled us along a rope in the dark. The ceiling looked like a star map and was in fact several thousand hungry larvae.

Fun fact#827

Vanuatu invented land diving

Naghol divers leap from wooden towers with vines tied to their ankles, a harvest ritual centuries older than bungee.

Read more: Vanuatu

Story#631

Hangi under the ground

Food cooked in a pit with hot stones for four hours. The steam when they opened it was worth the entire wait and the whole meal tasted faintly of earth.

Quote#823

Turangawaewae

Turangawaewae: a place to stand, the ground where you feel connected and empowered.

Story#635

Fiji time

The boat was due at ten. It came at half past twelve. Everyone we asked said Fiji time with a smile and we eventually stopped asking.

Story#639

Kava circle

You clap once, take the cup, drink it in one, clap three times. Your tongue goes numb and the conversation slows down and improves.

Story#641

Land diving at Pentecost

The tower is built from vines and branches with no nails. The divers aim to touch the ground with their shoulders. The mothers watch from a distance and do not look away.

Story#645

Sailing between atolls

Two days out of sight of land and then a line of palms appears that is only three metres above the water. You understand navigation differently after that.

Quote#828

Songlines

Songlines: routes across the land recorded in song, a map you can sing rather than fold.

Story#649

The bus that circled the island

There are two buses: clockwise and anticlockwise. You cannot get lost, and if you miss yours the other one arrives eventually going the long way.

Fun fact#847

Polynesians navigated by stars and birds

Wayfinders crossed thousands of kilometres of open Pacific reading stars, swell direction, cloud shapes and bird flight.

Read more: Polynesia

Story#652

Diving with the mantas

They arrive silently and are far larger than anything in the briefing prepared you for. Our guide held up nine fingers, meaning nine metres of wingspan, and then just watched.

Story#655

Waiting for the supply ship

The ship comes every few weeks and the whole island knows the day. Everything changes when it arrives: the shop, the menu, the mood.

Quote#833

Walkabout

Walkabout: a journey undertaken on foot to reconnect with country and self.

Story#659

Sunday singing

Nothing is open and everything is quiet, until the churches start. We sat outside on the grass and listened to four-part harmony coming through open windows for an hour.

Story#662

A sea that changed colour

The skipper said the reef changes every year now. He had been diving the same site for twenty-three years and pointed out exactly where the colour had gone.

Fun fact#954

The longest place name is in New Zealand

Taumata whakatangihanga koauau and its full 85-letter form is the longest official place name in an English-speaking country.

Read more: Hawke's Bay

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