The Americas: 189 stories, quotes and facts

Ten thousand kilometres of mountain spine, from Arctic ferries to Patagonian wind.

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Ten thousand kilometres of mountain spine, from Arctic ferries to Patagonian wind.

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Story#152

The stone that fit exactly

Our guide slid a bank card at a joint in the Inca wall and it would not enter. He did this for tourists twenty times a day, and it still made everyone go quiet.

Fun fact#592

Canada has the longest coastline

Canada's coastline runs over 200,000 kilometres, longer than the next ten countries combined thanks to its Arctic islands.

Read more: Canada

Quote#123

The mountains are calling

The mountains are calling and I must go.

Story#665

Night dive with manta rays

We knelt on the sand with torches pointed up. Plankton gathered in the light and the mantas came to eat, rolling over us, close enough to feel the water move.

Fun fact#595

Canada holds most of the world's lakes

Canada contains more lake area than the rest of the world put together, with over two million lakes.

Read more: Canada

Story#669

Volcano road closed

The road ended in black rock that had not been there two years before. A sign asked us not to take any lava home, which is apparently both disrespectful and unlucky.

Fun fact#599

Churchill is the polar bear capital

Bears gather near Churchill each autumn waiting for Hudson Bay to freeze, and the town leaves cars unlocked as bear shelters.

Read more: Churchill, Manitoba

Story#672

Snow on the Icefields Parkway

It snowed in June. We pulled into a viewpoint, three other cars did the same, and six strangers stood in a line watching a glacier disappear behind cloud without saying anything.

Fun fact#600

Quebec keeps French alive

Quebec's language laws protect French in commerce and signage, and it is the only province where French is the sole official language.

Quote#127

In every walk with nature

In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.

Story#676

Bear bell arithmetic

We were told to make noise. After two hours of singing badly we stopped, and thirty seconds later a black bear crossed the trail ahead. We resumed singing immediately.

Story#679

The tide at Fundy

We walked on the sea floor in the morning and kayaked over the same spot after lunch. Sixteen metres of water arrived while we ate.

Story#682

Poutine at two in the morning

Minus twenty outside and a queue out the door. The man in front of us explained that the cheese must squeak, and that anything else is not poutine but a tragedy.

Fun fact#608

Denali is taller from base to peak than Everest

Measured from its own base, Denali rises higher than Everest does above the Tibetan plateau.

Story#686

Northern lights over the highway

The driver pulled over without warning and turned off the headlights. Green went across the whole sky in about four seconds and then rearranged itself for an hour.

Quote#133

Climb the mountains

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.

Story#690

The ferry through the fjords

The state ferry takes three days and you sleep in a tent taped to the deck. It costs less than a flight and you see four hundred kilometres of coastline nobody photographs.

Fun fact#614

The Grand Canyon exposes two billion years

Rock at the canyon floor is nearly two billion years old, roughly half the age of the Earth.

Read more: Grand Canyon

Story#692

Grand Canyon at the wrong rim

We drove to the North Rim by accident, found eleven cars in the car park instead of a thousand, and had a viewpoint to ourselves for forty minutes.

Fun fact#618

Death Valley's rocks move by themselves

Stones leave long trails across the playa, pushed by thin ice sheets breaking up in light wind.

Read more: Racetrack Playa

Story#696

Descending is harder

Everyone warns you that going down is easy. On the way back up, in the last mile, a ranger handed out salt tablets and said the same sentence to every single person.

Quote#137

Going out was going in

I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.

Fun fact#622

New York has more languages than any city

Researchers have identified over 700 languages spoken in New York, making it the most linguistically diverse city ever recorded.

Read more: New York City

Story#700

Diner coffee refill

The waitress topped up the cup four times without being asked and called everyone honey. The pie was better than any restaurant we ate at that month.

Fun fact#624

The Statue of Liberty was a gift and a kit

France gave the statue, which arrived in 350 pieces packed in 214 crates and was assembled on site.

Read more: New York

Story#704

A town of eleven people

The sign said population 11. The bar was open, the man behind it was also the postmaster, and he knew exactly where we were headed before we said it.

Fun fact#626

Central Park is entirely designed

Every hill, lake and outcrop arrangement in Central Park was landscaped. Almost nothing there is natural.

Read more: New York City

Story#706

Route 66 remains

Half the towns on the old road are closed and half are museums about being closed. One motel owner has been repainting the same neon sign for thirty years.

Quote#183

Take only memories

Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time.

Story#710

Yosemite in the dark

We hiked out under a full moon without torches because the granite reflected enough light. A ranger told us afterwards that this was either wonderful or irresponsible.

Fun fact#632

Hawaii is the youngest US state and still growing

Kilauea keeps adding land to the Big Island, and a new seamount is forming offshore for a future island.

Read more: Hawaii

Story#714

Fog rolling into the bay

It came over the hill like water going down a drain in reverse. Ten minutes later the bridge was gone and it was ten degrees colder.

Fun fact#636

Mauna Kea is the tallest mountain from base

Measured from the seafloor, Mauna Kea rises over 10,000 metres, taller than Everest above sea level.

Read more: Mauna Loa

Story#716

Getting off at the wrong stop

We got out at 125th instead of 116th and ended up eating the best food of the trip while waiting for the next train, which we deliberately missed twice.

Fun fact#638

Louisiana uses parishes

Louisiana is the only state divided into parishes rather than counties, a leftover from its French and Spanish past.

Quote#248

The road is life

Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go. But no matter, the road is life.

Fun fact#640

New Orleans buries above ground

High groundwater made underground burial impractical, so the city built tombs above ground in walled cemeteries.

Read more: New York City

Story#720

Bluegrass on a porch

Four people, four instruments, no sheet music and no audience except us and a dog. It went on for two hours and nobody announced a single song title.

Fun fact#642

Alaska was bought for two cents an acre

The United States paid Russia 7.2 million dollars for Alaska in 1867, mocked at the time as Seward's Folly.

Read more: Miss Alaska USA

Story#724

Second line

A brass band came down the street on a Sunday afternoon and the crowd behind it grew from twelve to two hundred in four blocks. We never found out what it was for.

Story#726

Hurricane season lesson

The hotel put tape on the windows and everyone stocked up on ice. It missed us by ninety kilometres and the next morning the beach was covered in shells nobody had ever seen.

Fun fact#646

Mexico has 68 recognised languages

Alongside Spanish, Mexico officially recognises 68 indigenous languages with hundreds of variants.

Quote#253

Nothing behind me

Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me, as is ever so on the road.

Fun fact#648

Chichen Itza makes a snake of light

At the equinoxes, shadows on the pyramid's staircase form a serpent that appears to slide down to the ground.

Read more: Chichen Itza

Story#730

The border crossing at midnight

Two hours in a queue of stationary cars with men selling churros between the lanes. By the time we crossed, we had eaten dinner without leaving the vehicle.

Fun fact#650

Cenotes are collapsed cave roofs

Thousands of cenotes dot the Yucatan, formed along a ring of fractures linked to the asteroid impact that ended the dinosaurs.

Read more: Yucatán, Mexico

Story#734

Day of the dead, not Halloween

The cemeteries were full of families with candles, food and folding chairs, staying all night. A woman explained, kindly, that this was a reunion and not a haunting.

Fun fact#651

Chocolate began in Mesoamerica

Cacao was drunk bitter and spiced by the Maya and Aztecs long before Europeans added sugar and milk.

Read more: Mexico

Fun fact#654

Monarch butterflies migrate 4,000 km

Monarchs fly from Canada to a few Mexican mountain forests, and no single butterfly completes the round trip.

Story#737

Mole takes three days

Thirty ingredients, three days, and an argument with a neighbour about whether the chocolate goes in early or late. We were asked to judge and refused sensibly.

Fun fact#656

Guatemala has a lake in a caldera

Atitlan fills a caldera left by a colossal eruption 84,000 years ago and is ringed by three volcanoes.

Read more: Lake Atitlán

Quote#413

I went to the woods

I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life.

Story#740

Swimming in a cenote

The water was so clear that the boat above looked like it was floating in air. Fifteen metres down, tree roots came through the rock looking for it.

Fun fact#660

Honduras has a Maya city in the jungle

Copan's hieroglyphic stairway carries the longest known Maya text, over 2,000 glyphs on 63 steps.

Read more: Honduras

Story#744

Chichen Itza handclap

Clap once at the base of the pyramid and the echo comes back sounding like a bird. Our guide said the Maya designed it that way and then let three hundred people clap at once.

Fun fact#661

El Salvador surfs a long point break

Punta Roca near La Libertad delivers one of Central America's most consistent right-hand point breaks.

Read more: El Salvador

Story#747

The overnight bus with blankets

Reclining seats, a blanket, a film with no subtitles and a driver who took the mountain road at a speed we chose not to think about. We arrived rested.

Fun fact#664

Nicaragua has an island of two volcanoes

Ometepe sits in a freshwater lake and is formed by two volcanoes joined by a low isthmus.

Read more: Ometepe

Quote#418

In wildness is the preservation

In wildness is the preservation of the world.

Story#751

Volcano boarding

You climb a black cone for an hour carrying a plank and then sit on it and go down. Everyone lies about their speed at the bottom.

Story#754

Sloth traffic jam

The road was blocked for six minutes by a sloth in no hurry whatsoever. A park worker eventually carried it across and it looked mildly annoyed.

Fun fact#670

Panama's canal uses fresh water

Every ship transit releases millions of litres of fresh lake water to the sea, which is why droughts slow the canal.

Read more: Panama Canal

Story#757

Zip line nerves

The guide said don't brake, just glide. Halfway across a valley in cloud forest we understood why nobody talks on the way over.

Fun fact#671

Panama sunrise faces the Pacific

Because of the isthmus's S-shape, you can watch the sun rise over the Pacific and set over the Atlantic in Panama.

Read more: Panama City

Quote#423

Not till we are lost

Not till we are lost do we begin to understand ourselves.

Story#761

The canal from a small boat

Our boat shared a lock with a container ship the size of a street. The water rose nine metres in eight minutes and the crew above us waved down.

Story#764

Kuna molas

Every panel is hand stitched in reverse applique and takes weeks. The woman selling them explained the design was her grandmother's and then quoted a price that felt like theft on our side.

Fun fact#677

Bogota closes streets on Sundays

Ciclovia shuts over 100 kilometres of road to cars every Sunday, and hundreds of thousands of people cycle and skate.

Fun fact#680

Colombia has a river of five colours

An aquatic plant turns Cano Cristales red for a few months a year, mixing with green moss and yellow sand.

Read more: Caño Cristales

Story#767

Cartagena heat

We walked the walls at three in the afternoon like idiots. At seven, the same walls were full of people, music and lemonade sellers, and we understood the schedule.

Fun fact#681

Venezuela has the tallest waterfall

Angel Falls drops 979 metres, so far that much of the water becomes mist before reaching the bottom.

Read more: Angel Falls

Quote#428

Live in each season

Live in each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit.

Story#771

Coffee farm arithmetic

The farmer showed us how much a hand-picked kilo earns him and then what a cup costs in London. He wasn't angry about it, which somehow made it worse.

Fun fact#685

Guyana has a single-drop giant waterfall

Kaieteur Falls plunges 226 metres in one drop, roughly five times the height of Niagara, with almost no crowds.

Read more: Kaieteur Falls

Story#775

Sunday cycling

A hundred kilometres of road closed to cars. Families, racers, a man with a parrot on his handlebars, and free bike repair stands every few kilometres.

Fun fact#687

Suriname speaks Dutch

Suriname is the only South American country with Dutch as its official language, a legacy of colonial rule.

Read more: Suriname

Story#777

The lost city trek

Four days, seven river crossings and 1,200 mossy steps at the end. The guide's family had lived there for generations and he gave the tour partly in his own language.

Fun fact#689

Ecuador is named after the equator

Ecuador is the only country named for a line of latitude, and the true equator sits slightly off the famous monument.

Read more: Ecuador

Quote#433

The question is not what you look at

The question is not what you look at, but what you see.

Story#781

Boat to the jungle lodge

Three hours upriver, then the engine off, then paddling into a channel too narrow for the motor. The moment the noise stopped, the forest turned out to be extremely loud.

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