Mexico City is sinking
Built on a drained lakebed, Mexico City sinks several centimetres a year as groundwater is pumped out.
Sixty-eight recognised languages, a sinking capital, and the birthplace of chocolate.
The practical numbers, before the stories.
Worth knowing: Mexico City sits at 2,240 m. Give yourself a day before doing anything strenuous.
The decisions that determine whether the trip works, whichever country you are going to.
Alongside Spanish, Mexico officially recognises 68 indigenous languages with hundreds of variants. Its capital sits on a drained lakebed and subsides several centimetres a year. Cacao was drunk here, bitter and spiced, long before anyone in Europe thought to add sugar.
Below: the pyramid staircase where equinox shadows form a serpent, the ring of cenotes that traces the asteroid impact which ended the dinosaurs, the Day of the Dead as a reunion rather than a haunting, and the mole that takes three days and starts an argument about when the chocolate goes in. Mexico rewards eating on the street and asking what something is called.
Built on a drained lakebed, Mexico City sinks several centimetres a year as groundwater is pumped out.
Alongside Spanish, Mexico officially recognises 68 indigenous languages with hundreds of variants.
At the equinoxes, shadows on the pyramid's staircase form a serpent that appears to slide down to the ground.
Thousands of cenotes dot the Yucatan, formed along a ring of fractures linked to the asteroid impact that ended the dinosaurs.
Cacao was drunk bitter and spiced by the Maya and Aztecs long before Europeans added sugar and milk.
Monarchs fly from Canada to a few Mexican mountain forests, and no single butterfly completes the round trip.
Two hours in a queue of stationary cars with men selling churros between the lanes. By the time we crossed, we had eaten dinner without leaving the vehicle.
The cemeteries were full of families with candles, food and folding chairs, staying all night. A woman explained, kindly, that this was a reunion and not a haunting.
Thirty ingredients, three days, and an argument with a neighbour about whether the chocolate goes in early or late. We were asked to judge and refused sensibly.
The water was so clear that the boat above looked like it was floating in air. Fifteen metres down, tree roots came through the rock looking for it.
Clap once at the base of the pyramid and the echo comes back sounding like a bird. Our guide said the Maya designed it that way and then let three hundred people clap at once.
Reclining seats, a blanket, a film with no subtitles and a driver who took the mountain road at a speed we chose not to think about. We arrived rested.
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Mexico is one of 36 countries in the library. Read straight through a continent, or start from the map of everywhere we have written about.