Japan has more than 6,800 islands
Japan is an archipelago of over 6,800 islands, though four of them hold nearly all of the population.
An archipelago of 6,800 islands that treats punctuality as a form of politeness.
The practical numbers, before the stories.
Worth knowing: At 100 V, Japan has the lowest mains voltage in the world. Most modern chargers cope; hairdryers and kettles may not.
A day-by-day itinerary, and the guides that cover the decisions you make before you go.
Japan is an archipelago of more than 6,800 islands, though four of them carry almost the entire population. It also has more vending machines per head than anywhere else, a national forecast for cherry blossom, and a hotel that has been run by the same family since the year 705.
The entries here cover both the postcard and the practical: why Kyoto still has 1,600 temples, why the upper slopes of Mount Fuji are privately owned, what actually happens in a bathhouse before you get in the water, and why the last train home is a genuine social institution. If one idea runs through all of it, it is that Japanese travel rewards people who read the sign rather than the guidebook.
Japan is an archipelago of over 6,800 islands, though four of them hold nearly all of the population.
Station staff known as oshiya are still employed on the busiest Tokyo lines to help commuters fit inside the doors.
With roughly one machine for every 30 people, Japan sells everything from hot corn soup to fresh eggs on the street, day and night.
Kyoto was removed from the atomic target list partly because of its cultural importance, which is why 1,600 temples still stand.
Japanese weather services publish a sakura front each spring, tracking the bloom as it sweeps north from Okinawa to Hokkaido.
The upper slopes of Fuji legally belong to a Shinto shrine, a claim confirmed by Japan's courts.
Okunoshima was once a secret poison gas factory. Today hundreds of feral rabbits hop across the ruins.
We ran the length of the platform and made it with four seconds to spare. A salaryman already inside held the door with his briefcase, then bowed slightly, and neither of us mentioned it for the next forty minutes.
Everything closed at eleven and we ate hot corn soup and a boiled egg from a machine on a residential street. It was the least romantic meal of the trip and the one we still talk about.
A local told us you can judge a country by its convenience stores. We ate egg sandwiches from a Tokyo konbini at midnight and understood immediately what she meant.
The petals came down with the rain and stuck to everything. Nobody left the park. People simply opened umbrellas over their picnic blankets and carried on.
An older man wordlessly demonstrated the whole sequence: stool, bucket, scrub, rinse, then in. Then he nodded once, satisfied, and did not look at me again.
The cemetery has two hundred thousand graves under cedar trees. A monk walked past at six in the morning and the only sound in a kilometre of forest was his sandals.
Eight seats, one man, no menu in English and a paper form with boxes to tick. He looked at my form, changed one box, and handed back the pen. He was right.
Seventy kilometres over six bridges between islands, with a blue line painted on the road the whole way. You cannot get lost, which leaves you free to look at the sea.
The Japanese tea ceremony can take four hours and is judged less on the tea than on attention, hosting and restraint.
Most Japanese addresses describe blocks rather than streets, working from ward down to building number.
Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan has been run by the same family since the year 705, making it the oldest continuously operating hotel on record.
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Japan is one of 36 countries in the library. Read straight through a continent, or start from the map of everywhere we have written about.