India has over 120 languages
India recognises 22 official languages and counts more than 120 with over 10,000 speakers each.
Twenty-two official languages, 20 million rail passengers a day, and a different country every 300 kilometres.
The practical numbers, before the stories.
Worth knowing: India recognises more than 120 languages with over 10,000 speakers each.
The decisions that determine whether the trip works, whichever country you are going to.
India recognises 22 official languages and counts more than 120 with over 10,000 speakers each. Its railways move over 20 million people a day across 68,000 kilometres of track, which makes the train less a way of getting somewhere than the single best place to understand the country.
Below you will find the Taj Mahal changing colour through the day, bridges in Meghalaya grown from living fig roots over decades, ferries in Kerala that double as school buses, and the moment on a Delhi street when crossing the road stops feeling like courage and starts feeling like grammar. India is not difficult. It is dense, which is a different thing.
India recognises 22 official languages and counts more than 120 with over 10,000 speakers each.
White marble reflects the sky, so the Taj Mahal looks pink at dawn, blinding white at noon and gold under a full moon.
Indian Railways carries more than 20 million passengers a day across a network of over 68,000 kilometres.
In Kerala's backwaters, public ferries serve as school buses and commuter transport across 900 kilometres of connected waterways.
Khasi villagers train living fig roots across rivers for decades until they form bridges that get stronger with age.
Magnetic Hill near Leh appears to roll cars uphill. It is an optical illusion caused by the surrounding slope.
Varanasi is among the oldest continuously lived-in cities in the world, with settlement stretching back roughly 3,000 years.
We flew from sea level to three and a half thousand metres and thought we felt fine. Walking up one flight of stairs corrected that opinion within thirty seconds.
The bus stopped where there was nothing except a man with a kettle. Twenty-eight people got off, drank tea from clay cups, smashed the cups on the ground, and got back on.
Half the carriage was a wedding party travelling to the ceremony. By hour three, they had taught us a dance and by hour five we were invited, sincerely, and we still regret not going.
The boat pushed off in the dark and the ghats woke up in stages: bathers, then bells, then flowers on the water, then the sun straight up out of the far bank.
The public ferry cost less than a coffee and served as the school bus. Children got off at their own gardens, one by one, waving at the boat.
It takes fifteen years to grow a bridge and about six hundred steps down a valley to reach one. The man who showed us said his grandfather started the one we crossed.
There are lanes painted on the road and everyone treats them as a suggestion. After a week, crossing the street stops feeling like courage and starts feeling like grammar.
The idea is that the wind carries the prayer, so a faded flag has done more work than a bright one. Nobody takes the old ones down.
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India is one of 36 countries in the library. Read straight through a continent, or start from the map of everywhere we have written about.