Blue in every doorway
There are at least nine blues in one alley and the paint is refreshed by hand each spring. A woman repainting her step let me help for two minutes and then politely took the brush back.
Author not specified in the imported source
Chefchaouen, Morocco · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Bargaining badly
I accepted the second price and the seller looked genuinely disappointed. He explained that the negotiation was the point, poured tea, and gave me a better price than I would have got.
Author not specified in the imported source
Cairo, Egypt · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The felucca captain's nap
The wind died and our captain tied off the sail, lay down on the deck, and slept for forty minutes. We drifted backwards. When he woke, the wind came back within five minutes as though he had ordered it.
Author not specified in the imported source
Aswan, Egypt · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Sunrise on the Nile
Twenty balloons went up at once over the Valley of the Kings. From the ground it looked like the sky had been decorated. From the basket it was completely silent except for the burner.
Author not specified in the imported source
Luxor, Egypt · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The bus with no timetable
The bus left when it was full and not before. Full meant something different than we expected. We made friends with everyone in three rows and arrived eleven hours later knowing four words of Amharic.
Author not specified in the imported source
Ethiopia · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Coffee three times
The ceremony took an hour: green beans roasted in the room, ground by hand, brewed and poured three times. Refusing the third round, we were told, is a small insult. We stayed.
Author not specified in the imported source
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Priests in the rock
A priest unlocked a church cut down into the ground and held up a cross older than most European cathedrals. Then he sat back down on a plastic chair and continued reading his phone.
Author not specified in the imported source
Lalibela, Ethiopia · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The gorilla that walked past
We were told to stay seven metres away. Nobody told the silverback, who walked within an arm's length of my knee without breaking step. The guide's only instruction was to look at the ground.
Author not specified in the imported source
Bwindi, Uganda · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Crossing the equator twice
The sign said equator and a man demonstrated water draining in opposite directions three metres apart. The physics was nonsense and the performance was excellent, and we tipped him anyway.
Author not specified in the imported source
Uganda · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The migration crossing
We waited five hours at the river. Then, with no signal we could detect, four thousand wildebeest decided at once and the water turned brown. It lasted eleven minutes.
Author not specified in the imported source
Masai Mara, Kenya · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Matatu music
Our matatu had a sound system worth more than the vehicle and a hand-painted portrait of a footballer on the back. The conductor hung out of the door collecting fares in traffic and never miscounted once.
Author not specified in the imported source
Nairobi, Kenya · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Slow to the summit
The guide said pole pole about four hundred times in five days. On summit night, walking at half the pace felt absurd until we passed the fast group sitting down in the dark.
Author not specified in the imported source
Kilimanjaro, Tanzania · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Zanzibar at low tide
The sea went out nearly a kilometre and the whole village walked out onto the flats with buckets. Children raced the incoming tide back to shore as if it were a game invented that morning.
Author not specified in the imported source
Zanzibar, Tanzania · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The dhow builder
He was making a boat with no plans, using a stick with notches as his only measuring tool. His father built the boat next to it. His son was sanding a rudder and complaining about it.
Author not specified in the imported source
Lamu, Kenya · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Salt and pink water
The collectors work waist-deep in water saltier than the sea, coated in shea butter to protect their skin. They fill a pirogue by hand and it takes most of a morning.
Author not specified in the imported source
Lac Rose, Senegal · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The griot's version
We asked about the history of the town and got a song instead of a date. It lasted nine minutes, named six generations, and was more accurate than the guidebook.
Author not specified in the imported source
Mali · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Mud plaster day
Once a year the whole town replasters the mosque. There are teams, there is a race, and there is a great deal of mud. Being clean that day marks you as a visitor.
Author not specified in the imported source
Djenne, Mali · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
A sandstorm and a shop
Visibility dropped to about four metres. We took shelter in a shop selling only mattresses and phone credit, and the owner made tea for eleven people until it passed.
Author not specified in the imported source
Mauritania · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The night the desert froze
Nobody warns you that the Sahara gets cold. At three in the morning we wore every item of clothing we had brought and still slept badly, then watched a sunrise that made it fine.
Author not specified in the imported source
Sahara · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Table Mountain in cloud
We took the cable car up into total white. Visibility was eight metres. Then the cloth lifted for ninety seconds, the whole city appeared below, and it closed again like a curtain.
Author not specified in the imported source
Cape Town, South Africa · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The penguin commute
African penguins crossed the boardwalk at their own pace and in their own order. A queue of humans waited politely, which felt like the correct arrangement.
Author not specified in the imported source
Boulders Beach, South Africa · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Braai rules
There is one person at the fire and everyone else offers advice. Nobody touches the tongs. The meat is ready when the person at the fire says it is ready, and not before.
Author not specified in the imported source
Johannesburg, South Africa · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Waiting for the ferry to Ilha
The ferry was scheduled for nine. It left at two. In between, someone produced a guitar and someone else produced grilled prawns, and by the time it arrived nobody wanted to board.
Author not specified in the imported source
Mozambique · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The delta by mokoro
Our poler stood at the back and pushed us through reeds taller than the boat. He stopped once, silently, and pointed at an elephant twenty metres away that we would never have seen.
Author not specified in the imported source
Okavango, Botswana · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.