Coffee with the mayor
We asked for directions and were invited for coffee. Halfway through, someone mentioned our host had been mayor for eight years. He was more interested in explaining lake trout than politics.
Author not specified in the imported source
Ohrid, North Macedonia · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The bridge divers
A young man stood on the parapet for eleven minutes collecting coins before he jumped. Someone in the crowd explained that he would not go until the collection reached a certain amount, and that this had been the rule for centuries.
Author not specified in the imported source
Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Sarajevo roses
There are scars in the pavement where shells landed, filled with red resin. Nobody points them out. You simply notice one, then another, then you walk more slowly for the rest of the afternoon.
Author not specified in the imported source
Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
A wedding we were not invited to
The road was blocked by a wedding procession. We waited, and then someone knocked on the car window with two glasses of plum brandy and would not take no. We arrived at our guesthouse three hours late and extremely happy.
Author not specified in the imported source
Transylvania, Romania · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The cellar with street signs
The wine cellars had road names painted on the tunnel walls: Cabernet Street, Feteasca Avenue. Our guide drove an electric buggy and took corners like a taxi driver.
Author not specified in the imported source
Cricova, Moldova · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
A night train to nowhere useful
The compartment had four bunks and five people, and the fifth was fine with the floor. Tea arrived in glasses with metal holders at six in the morning whether you were awake or not.
Author not specified in the imported source
Ukraine · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The bells of Tallinn
At Christmas the old town smells of almonds and every second doorway leads to a cellar bar. We got lost twice inside two hundred metres because every street looks like the postcard.
Author not specified in the imported source
Tallinn, Estonia · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Art nouveau ceiling
I looked up at a stairwell ceiling in Riga and stayed looking for so long that a resident coming home stopped and looked up too, then said something in Latvian that clearly meant yes, it is good, isn't it.
Author not specified in the imported source
Riga, Latvia · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The republic of artists
Uzupis has a constitution on a wall in forty languages. One article says a dog has the right to be a dog. Another says everyone has the right to be unhappy. Both feel earned.
Author not specified in the imported source
Vilnius, Lithuania · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Midnight football
The sun did not set. At half past midnight there was a full football match on the astroturf and a queue for the pitch afterwards. Nobody looked tired.
Author not specified in the imported source
Tromso, Norway · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Waiting for the lights
Four nights of cloud, and on the fifth the sky opened for eleven minutes. Nobody in the cabin spoke. Afterwards a Danish couple opened a bottle of something and we drank it out of coffee cups.
Author not specified in the imported source
Abisko, Sweden · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Reindeer right of way
The road was blocked by forty reindeer moving at their own pace. The driver turned off the engine, poured coffee from a thermos, and said this was quicker than trying to hurry them.
Author not specified in the imported source
Lapland, Finland · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The rain in Galway
It rained horizontally. In the pub, a man told me there is no bad weather, only the wrong jacket, then bought me a pint because my jacket was clearly wrong.
Author not specified in the imported source
Galway, Ireland · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Sheep on the single track
Twelve passing places in three kilometres, and a sheep asleep in every one. The oncoming driver reversed a quarter of a mile with one hand on the wheel and did not stop talking on the phone.
Author not specified in the imported source
Isle of Skye, Scotland · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
A castle with a kettle
The bothy had four walls, a fireplace, a visitors' book and no door key. Someone had left dry kindling and half a bag of coffee for whoever came next. We left tea and matches.
Author not specified in the imported source
Highlands, Scotland · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The bus that waited
We came down off the ridge nineteen minutes late and the last bus was still there. The driver had seen two head torches on the mountain and decided he was not leaving until they came down.
Author not specified in the imported source
Snowdonia, Wales · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Sunday in Bloomsbury
Every museum was free and every cafe was full. We spent four hours in one room of the British Museum, ate a sandwich on the steps, and did not see the rest of the city at all.
Author not specified in the imported source
London, England · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Low tide at St Michael's
The causeway appeared out of the sea over about twenty minutes as if someone were slowly drawing it. Everyone stood at the edge with their shoes in their hands waiting for permission from the water.
Author not specified in the imported source
Cornwall, England · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The Faroese fog
We drove through a tunnel and came out in a different weather system. The village on the other side had sun, sheep on the roofs, and a shop that sold both fishing tackle and cake.
Author not specified in the imported source
Faroe Islands · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
A bear on the trail
The guide stopped, put a hand out flat, and we all stopped too. Two hundred metres up the slope a brown bear crossed without looking at us once. Nobody took a photograph until it was gone.
Author not specified in the imported source
Carpathians, Romania · Europe
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The stone that fit exactly
Our guide slid a bank card at a joint in the Inca wall and it would not enter. He did this for tourists twenty times a day, and it still made everyone go quiet.
Author not specified in the imported source
Cusco, Peru · The Americas
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Marrakech at first light
At six in the morning the Jemaa el-Fnaa is empty except for cats and a man sweeping. By nine it is a market, by seven a food court, by eleven a drum circle. Same square, four cities.
Author not specified in the imported source
Marrakech, Morocco · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The tea ritual
Three glasses: the first bitter as life, the second strong as love, the third gentle as death. Our host poured from a great height each time and would not let us leave until all three were drunk.
Author not specified in the imported source
Sahara, Morocco · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Sand in everything
Two months after we came home I found Saharan sand in the spine of a paperback. It had crossed a continent inside a book and I could not bring myself to shake it out.
Author not specified in the imported source
Merzouga, Morocco · Africa
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.