Stars over the Kalahari
The Milky Way was bright enough to cast a shadow. Our guide named constellations we had never heard of, from a sky map that had nothing to do with Greek myths.
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Kalahari, Botswana · Africa
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Dunes before sunrise
The gate opens at dawn and everyone drives too fast to Dune 45. We climbed the ridge in the dark, sat down at the top, and the desert turned from grey to orange in about four minutes.
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Sossusvlei, Namibia · Africa
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A road with no corners
We drove for two hours and turned the wheel twice. The gravel road went straight to the horizon and then continued. We passed one car and both of us waved.
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Namibia · Africa
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Devil's Pool nerves
The guide swims first to show it is safe, then holds your ankles while you look over the lip of Victoria Falls. It is entirely safe, allegedly, and my hands shook for ten minutes afterwards.
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Livingstone, Zambia · Africa
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Rain in the rainforest
It did not rain, it emptied. Four hours of noise so loud that conversation stopped. Then it ended in about a minute and the forest started making an entirely different set of sounds.
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Congo Basin · Africa
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The lemur that chose me
We were told not to feed them. One sifaka disagreed with this policy, landed on my shoulder, checked all my pockets in about six seconds and left disappointed.
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Andasibe, Madagascar · Africa
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Baobab road at dusk
Everyone comes for the sunset photograph. Nobody mentions that afterwards, in the dark, ox carts keep coming down the same road for another hour, and that is the better picture.
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Morondava, Madagascar · Africa
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Vanilla in the air
The whole town smells of curing vanilla. A farmer showed us pods drying on racks and explained the two years between flower and export. Then he asked what we pay for one pod at home and laughed for a long time.
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Sambava, Madagascar · Africa
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Fishing with cormorants
An old technique, mostly gone now, demonstrated for us by a man who clearly enjoyed the audience. He said his grandfather had six birds and knew all their names.
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Nile Delta, Egypt · Africa
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The oasis at dusk
Salt lakes, date palms and a mud fortress melting slowly in the rain that comes once a decade. We swam in a spring at sunset with four boys who had cycled from the village to show off.
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Siwa, Egypt · Africa
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Tunis medina navigation
The rule we were given: if a street gets narrower, you are going the wrong way; if it widens, you are heading out. It worked eight times out of nine.
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Tunis, Tunisia · Africa
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Berber hospitality
We knocked to ask for water and were served lunch. When we tried to pay, our host looked offended, then wrapped bread for us to take up the pass.
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Atlas Mountains, Morocco · Africa
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The taxi that collected everyone
The shared taxi left when the fourth passenger arrived. By the end there were six of us, a crate of tomatoes and a goat, and the driver charged the same as if it had been four.
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Ghana · Africa
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Highlife on a Sunday
Music came out of every second doorway and none of it was the same song. A man selling fried plantain kept time with his tongs without appearing to notice.
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Accra, Ghana · Africa
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The carpenter's coffins
In the workshop stood a coffin shaped like a fish, one like an aeroplane and one like a cocoa pod. Each was a life summarised in wood, and the carpenter explained every choice.
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Teshie, Ghana · Africa
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Waiting out a strike in Athens
The metro stopped and the museums shut. We walked eleven kilometres, ate three lunches and found a rooftop where the Acropolis appeared between two air conditioning units.
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Athens, Greece · Europe
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The olive harvest
Nets under the trees, sticks in every hand, and a family arguing pleasantly about branch technique. We picked for three hours and were paid in oil, which was a good deal.
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Peloponnese, Greece · Europe
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Nightfall in the Alentejo
The nearest streetlight was eleven kilometres away. We ate outside and by nine o'clock the sky had more stars than the guidebook had words.
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Alentejo, Portugal · Europe
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The train that stopped for a cow
We waited eighteen minutes. The driver walked back along the carriages explaining the situation to each one personally, and by the time we moved everybody knew everybody.
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Andalusia, Spain · Europe
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A festival that found us
We arrived in a village for lunch and left at midnight. Nobody told us it was the patron saint's day, and nobody could believe we had turned up by accident.
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Sardinia, Italy · Europe
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The lighthouse keeper's cat
The lighthouse is automatic now, but the cat still patrols as though it has responsibilities. The keeper's grandson runs a cafe next door and tells the story eleven times a day.
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Brittany, France · Europe
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Cold water swim club
Six people in dressing gowns at eight in the morning in February. They swim for four minutes and drink tea for forty. We were invited on the first morning and did not miss a day.
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Wild Atlantic Way, Ireland · Europe
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The tram driver's tour
The tram was nearly empty so the driver pointed things out as we passed, in three languages, without slowing down. At the terminus he apologised for talking too much.
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Porto, Portugal · Europe
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Fog on the Camino
We walked in fog for two days and saw the same twelve metres of path. Then it lifted on the last morning and Santiago's towers were exactly where they were meant to be.
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Galicia, Spain · Europe
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