The last train to Kyoto
We ran the length of the platform and made it with four seconds to spare. A salaryman already inside held the door with his briefcase, then bowed slightly, and neither of us mentioned it for the next forty minutes.
Author not specified in the imported source
Kyoto, Japan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Vending machine dinner
Everything closed at eleven and we ate hot corn soup and a boiled egg from a machine on a residential street. It was the least romantic meal of the trip and the one we still talk about.
Author not specified in the imported source
Osaka, Japan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The convenience store test
A local told us you can judge a country by its convenience stores. We ate egg sandwiches from a Tokyo konbini at midnight and understood immediately what she meant.
Author not specified in the imported source
Tokyo, Japan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Cherry blossom in the rain
The petals came down with the rain and stuck to everything. Nobody left the park. People simply opened umbrellas over their picnic blankets and carried on.
Author not specified in the imported source
Tokyo, Japan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Onsen etiquette lesson
An older man wordlessly demonstrated the whole sequence: stool, bucket, scrub, rinse, then in. Then he nodded once, satisfied, and did not look at me again.
Author not specified in the imported source
Hakone, Japan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Silence at the temple gate
The cemetery has two hundred thousand graves under cedar trees. A monk walked past at six in the morning and the only sound in a kilometre of forest was his sandals.
Author not specified in the imported source
Koyasan, Japan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The ramen counter
Eight seats, one man, no menu in English and a paper form with boxes to tick. He looked at my form, changed one box, and handed back the pen. He was right.
Author not specified in the imported source
Fukuoka, Japan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Cycling Shimanami
Seventy kilometres over six bridges between islands, with a blue line painted on the road the whole way. You cannot get lost, which leaves you free to look at the sea.
Author not specified in the imported source
Setouchi, Japan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Bathhouse in Busan
A woman scrubbed me with a mitt until I questioned several life decisions, and I emerged feeling like a new person and slightly smaller.
Author not specified in the imported source
Busan, South Korea · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Seoul at four in the morning
The city does not really stop. At four we ate fried chicken with people finishing work and people starting it, and nobody could tell which was which.
Author not specified in the imported source
Seoul, South Korea · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The DMZ tour
The most surreal part was not the soldiers, it was the gift shop. We bought a fridge magnet at the edge of the world's most fortified border.
Author not specified in the imported source
Korean Peninsula · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Hutong hospitality
We took a wrong turn into a courtyard and were handed sunflower seeds by three grandmothers who wanted to know our ages and marital status in that order.
Author not specified in the imported source
Beijing, China · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
On the wall at dawn
We started at five to be alone. For two hours the only people on that section of wall were us and a woman selling water who had walked up ahead of us and was not out of breath.
Author not specified in the imported source
Jinshanling, China · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The overnight sleeper to Xi'an
Six bunks, thermos flasks of hot water, and a card game we did not understand but were dealt into anyway. By morning we had lost imaginary money and gained four contacts.
Author not specified in the imported source
China · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Tea horse road
The old caravan route is a hiking trail now. In one village a man was still pressing tea into cakes by hand with a stone and a cloth, exactly as the museum described.
Author not specified in the imported source
Yunnan, China · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Rice terraces at flooding
In February the terraces fill with water and the whole mountainside becomes a mirror in fifteen hundred pieces. Then the rice grows and it is just a hillside again.
Author not specified in the imported source
Yuanyang, China · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Hong Kong at eye level
We took the Mid-Levels escalator up through the city and looked into offices, kitchens and living rooms. It is public transport that is also a documentary.
Author not specified in the imported source
Hong Kong · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The night market rule
Pick the stall with the longest queue of people who are not holding cameras. It worked five nights out of five.
Author not specified in the imported source
Taipei, Taiwan · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Sleeping in a ger
The stove goes out at three in the morning and someone gets up to feed it. On our second night it was my turn, and I got it wrong, and the family were extremely polite about it.
Author not specified in the imported source
Mongolia · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Eagle hunter's arm
The bird weighed six kilos and he held it out one-handed for twenty minutes without a tremble. Then he handed it to me and I lasted eleven seconds.
Author not specified in the imported source
Bayan-Olgii, Mongolia · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Altitude arithmetic
We flew from sea level to three and a half thousand metres and thought we felt fine. Walking up one flight of stairs corrected that opinion within thirty seconds.
Author not specified in the imported source
Leh, India · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
The chai stop
The bus stopped where there was nothing except a man with a kettle. Twenty-eight people got off, drank tea from clay cups, smashed the cups on the ground, and got back on.
Author not specified in the imported source
Rajasthan, India · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Wedding on the train
Half the carriage was a wedding party travelling to the ceremony. By hour three, they had taught us a dance and by hour five we were invited, sincerely, and we still regret not going.
Author not specified in the imported source
India · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.
Varanasi before sunrise
The boat pushed off in the dark and the ghats woke up in stages: bathers, then bells, then flowers on the water, then the sun straight up out of the far bank.
Author not specified in the imported source
Varanasi, India · Asia
Imported text; story or fact not individually verified. A reference may provide background only.