The chai stop
The bus stopped where there was nothing except a man with a kettle. Twenty-eight people got off, drank tea from clay cups, smashed the cups on the ground, and got back on.
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Rajasthan, India · Asia
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Wedding on the train
Half the carriage was a wedding party travelling to the ceremony. By hour three, they had taught us a dance and by hour five we were invited, sincerely, and we still regret not going.
Author not specified in the imported source
India · Asia
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Varanasi before sunrise
The boat pushed off in the dark and the ghats woke up in stages: bathers, then bells, then flowers on the water, then the sun straight up out of the far bank.
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Varanasi, India · Asia
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Kerala backwater bus
The public ferry cost less than a coffee and served as the school bus. Children got off at their own gardens, one by one, waving at the boat.
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Kerala, India · Asia
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Living root bridge
It takes fifteen years to grow a bridge and about six hundred steps down a valley to reach one. The man who showed us said his grandfather started the one we crossed.
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Meghalaya, India · Asia
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Traffic as fluid dynamics
There are lanes painted on the road and everyone treats them as a suggestion. After a week, crossing the street stops feeling like courage and starts feeling like grammar.
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Delhi, India · Asia
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The Sri Lankan train to Ella
Doors open, feet out, tea plantations for four hours. Somebody's grandmother told me to move back from the door, in Sinhala, and I understood every word.
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Sri Lanka · Asia
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Stilt fishermen
The men on poles now pose more than they fish, and they say so themselves. One of them told us the technique started during a wartime fuel shortage in the 1940s.
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Galle, Sri Lanka · Asia
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Full moon, no alcohol
Every full moon day is a public holiday and the bars close. We ended up at a temple at nine in the evening with a thousand people holding oil lamps, which was a better night out.
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Sri Lanka · Asia
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The tuk-tuk negotiation
He named a price, I halved it, he laughed, we settled in the middle and then he took me to his cousin's suit shop anyway. The suit was actually quite good.
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Bangkok, Thailand · Asia
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Songkran ambush
We stepped out of the guesthouse dry and were soaked within nine metres by a five-year-old with a bucket and no remorse. It was 39 degrees. We thanked her.
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Chiang Mai, Thailand · Asia
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Monks at dawn
Two hundred monks in silence, and one tourist with a flash. A local woman kneeling with rice glared at him with such force that he put the camera away for good.
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Luang Prabang, Laos · Asia
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Slow boat down the Mekong
Two days on wooden benches with a boat full of strangers and one guitar. By the second afternoon everybody knew everybody's story and nobody knew anybody's surname.
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Laos · Asia
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Bomb crater fields
The craters are green now and farmers plough around them. Our guide explained the colour code for unexploded ordnance markers in the same tone you would explain a bus timetable.
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Xieng Khouang, Laos · Asia
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Angkor at five in the morning
Three thousand people waited for the sunrise photograph at the front pond. We walked ten minutes to the east side and had a nine-hundred-year-old temple entirely to ourselves.
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Siem Reap, Cambodia · Asia
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The teacher at the market
He sold noodles in the morning and taught English in the afternoon and refused to charge us for a bowl once he learned we were teachers too. We came back three times to argue about it.
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Battambang, Cambodia · Asia
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Motorbike lessons
The advice for crossing the road was to walk slowly and never stop. It is terrifying for two days and completely obvious on the third.
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Hanoi, Vietnam · Asia
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Train street tea
We drank iced tea sixty centimetres from a railway line. Twice an hour everyone stood, moved the chairs, and sat back down as the train passed.
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Hanoi, Vietnam · Asia
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Overnight bus to Sapa
Sleeper buses have three rows of reclining pods and a strict no-shoes policy. I slept for six hours and woke in fog with rice terraces underneath it.
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Vietnam · Asia
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Bun cha at eleven
The stall opened at eleven and sold out by one. On the third day the owner recognised us and put extra herbs on the plate without a word.
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Hanoi, Vietnam · Asia
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Ha Long fog
We had booked for the view and got two days of white. Then on the last morning it burned off in about fifteen minutes and sixteen hundred islands appeared at once.
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Ha Long Bay, Vietnam · Asia
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Nyepi silence
For twenty-four hours the airport closes, the lights go off and nobody leaves the house. At night the sky over Bali is the darkest it gets all year, and everybody looks up.
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Bali, Indonesia · Asia
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The volcano hike we regretted
Two in the morning, a gas mask, and miners carrying ninety kilos of sulphur up the same path in flip-flops. Nobody in our group complained again about anything.
Author not specified in the imported source
Ijen, Indonesia · Asia
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Komodo standoff
The ranger carried a forked stick, which seemed insufficient. The dragon was entirely uninterested and we walked around it feeling both relieved and slightly insulted.
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Komodo, Indonesia · Asia
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