Chichen Itza handclap
Clap once at the base of the pyramid and the echo comes back sounding like a bird. Our guide said the Maya designed it that way and then let three hundred people clap at once.
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Chichen Itza, Mexico · The Americas
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The overnight bus with blankets
Reclining seats, a blanket, a film with no subtitles and a driver who took the mountain road at a speed we chose not to think about. We arrived rested.
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Mexico · The Americas
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Volcano boarding
You climb a black cone for an hour carrying a plank and then sit on it and go down. Everyone lies about their speed at the bottom.
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Leon, Nicaragua · The Americas
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Sloth traffic jam
The road was blocked for six minutes by a sloth in no hurry whatsoever. A park worker eventually carried it across and it looked mildly annoyed.
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Costa Rica · The Americas
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Zip line nerves
The guide said don't brake, just glide. Halfway across a valley in cloud forest we understood why nobody talks on the way over.
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Monteverde, Costa Rica · The Americas
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The canal from a small boat
Our boat shared a lock with a container ship the size of a street. The water rose nine metres in eight minutes and the crew above us waved down.
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Panama · The Americas
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Kuna molas
Every panel is hand stitched in reverse applique and takes weeks. The woman selling them explained the design was her grandmother's and then quoted a price that felt like theft on our side.
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Guna Yala, Panama · The Americas
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Cartagena heat
We walked the walls at three in the afternoon like idiots. At seven, the same walls were full of people, music and lemonade sellers, and we understood the schedule.
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Cartagena, Colombia · The Americas
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Coffee farm arithmetic
The farmer showed us how much a hand-picked kilo earns him and then what a cup costs in London. He wasn't angry about it, which somehow made it worse.
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Salento, Colombia · The Americas
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Sunday cycling
A hundred kilometres of road closed to cars. Families, racers, a man with a parrot on his handlebars, and free bike repair stands every few kilometres.
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Bogota, Colombia · The Americas
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The lost city trek
Four days, seven river crossings and 1,200 mossy steps at the end. The guide's family had lived there for generations and he gave the tour partly in his own language.
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Sierra Nevada, Colombia · The Americas
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Boat to the jungle lodge
Three hours upriver, then the engine off, then paddling into a channel too narrow for the motor. The moment the noise stopped, the forest turned out to be extremely loud.
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Amazon, Peru · The Americas
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Piranha for dinner
We caught four and ate three. They are mostly bones and the guide clearly finds the whole tourist ritual funny, but he cooked them properly.
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Amazon, Brazil · The Americas
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Meeting of the waters
Two rivers ran side by side for six kilometres without mixing. You can put a hand in each and feel the temperature difference.
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Manaus, Brazil · The Americas
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Carnival in a side street
The famous parade costs a lot of money. Two streets away, a neighbourhood bloco with a hundred drummers went past for free and nobody was filming it.
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Rio de Janeiro, Brazil · The Americas
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Sunset at Ipanema
The whole beach applauds when the sun goes behind the hill. Nobody organises it and nobody explains it and it happens every clear evening.
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Rio de Janeiro, Brazil · The Americas
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Iguazu from below
The boat drives you into the falls on purpose. Everything you own gets soaked and the guide films your face while it happens.
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Iguazu, Argentina · The Americas
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Steak and no menu
The parrilla had four items and a chalkboard. The waiter asked how we wanted it, disagreed with the answer, and served it his way. He was correct.
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Buenos Aires, Argentina · The Americas
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Tango in a square
Two people in their seventies danced on paving stones in San Telmo with a portable speaker. A crowd formed, and nobody who watched was under any illusion about who was best.
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Buenos Aires, Argentina · The Americas
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Wind in Patagonia
The wind blew constantly for four days from the same direction. On the fifth it stopped and everyone in the hostel came outside to check that something was not wrong.
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Patagonia, Argentina · The Americas
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The W trek weather
Four seasons before lunch on every single day. Nobody bothered changing clothes for the rain because it would be sunny again in twenty minutes.
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Torres del Paine, Chile · The Americas
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Stars in the Atacama
The guide switched off the last light and asked us to wait ten minutes for our eyes. The Milky Way arrived as if someone had turned it on.
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Atacama, Chile · The Americas
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Salt flat perspective
Everyone takes the same forced-perspective photo and everyone thinks they invented it. Our driver had a box of props and a practised routine and enjoyed it more than we did.
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Uyuni, Bolivia · The Americas
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Death road brakes
Sixty-four kilometres downhill with a drop on one side. The guide said the brakes were the only thing worth checking and then checked them four times.
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Yungas Road, Bolivia · The Americas
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